Mardi Gras or Carnival is a series of celebrations, beginning around Epiphany and culminating on the day before Ash Wednesday. Mardi Gras is French for "Fat Tuesday" (also known as Shrove Tuesday) - the name comes from the practice of eating richer, fatty foods before the ritual fasting of the Lenten season, which begins on Ash Wednesday.   Carnival is an important celebration in Catholic nations worldwide, and many celebrate Shrove Tuesday with pancake dinners or other fried breads and pastries. 

The term "Mardi Gras" has come to mean the whole period of celebratory events, not just the single day. In Mobile, Alabama, Mardi Gras social events begin in November, followed by mystic society balls on Thanksgiving, then New Year's Eve, followed by parades and balls in January and February, celebrating until midnight on Fat Tuesday. In addition to balls and parades, Mardi Gras practices include wearing masks and costumes, overturning social conventions, dancing, sports competitions, parades, and just plain partying.

The history of Mardi Gras in the U.S. began when the French and Spaniards settled along the Gulf Coast, and most people today associate Mardi Gras with New Orleans.  It's true that New Orleans puts on quite a show and the entire city becomes a party place during Mardi Gras season.  However -- the good folks of Mobile, Alabama, are quick to point out that the first official recognition of the day is found in the 1699 journal of French-Canadian explorer Pierre LeMoyne D'Iberville, one of the founders of Mobile.  He named his campsite, "Mardi Gras Bayou" and by the next year, the French colonists at Old Mobile were celebrating Mardi Gras with feasting and singing.  Might as well experience both of them!

We left home on the first of March headed south.  First stop was Marianna, Florida, for a visit with Margaret's Aunt Sue and cousins Lynn and Nell; we enjoyed dinner and visiting with them.  Then we headed over to DeFuniak Springs, Florida, for a first-ever meeting with one of Fran's distant cousins, Johnnie Riley White; it was fun to meet face-to-face after a long-time correspondence around Herlong family history.  Visiting DeFuniak Springs was nice, too - it's an interesting little city, a railroad town located on one of two naturally round spring-fed lakes in the world (the other is near Zurich, Switzerland).  As home of the Florida Chautauqua Association, DeFuniak Springs has lots of history and some beautiful old homes surrounding the lake.

We then made our way to Mobile, but just for a short visit - just long enough to enjoy at shrimp po' boy sandwich and to say hello to our favorite dogs of Alabama (and their keepers, Archie and Jimmy) - and then on to New Orleans.  We stayed at the Hampton Inn, a great location on the edge of the French Quarter and a block from Bourbon Street. 

We arrived mid-morning, so had plenty of time to see the sights before nighttime's serious partying.  We headed over to Cafe du Monde, famous for its chicory coffee and beignets.  Hopped up on sugar and caffeine, and well-dusted with powdered sugar, we set out to explore the city. 

First stop was the French Market, which runs along the waterfront and sells anything and everything. Lots of shops, lots of vendors, lots of crazy people.

The St. Louis Cathedral won't win any prizes for outstanding architecture, but it is the oldest cathedral in North America, as well as the center of spiritual life in New Orleans.  The Cathedral sits on Jackson Square and is flanked by two historic buildings, one of which was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. 

All around the square there are artists and street performers.

The Mississippi River has played a large role in American history, and the Moonwalk adjacent to the French Quarter is a great place to experience the river in all its bustling activity, natural splendor and historical significance.  Sweeping vistas, public art, riverboats and people-watching --- all are here to enjoy. 

And then there's Bourbon Street, the famous and historic street that spans the length of the French Quarter.  The upper end of Bourbon Street is home to an endless array of street performers, strip joints, bars, t-shirt shops and restaurants.  By day, it's fun and decorated for partying, but still pretty tame.

We walked until our legs begged for mercy and then hopped aboard a mule-drawn buggy for a seated tour of the old town.  Our guide was a former history teacher who talked non-stop and kept us well-entertained while we rested our tired feet.

Finally it was time for parades - and we were lucky to be in town on a night with three parades scheduled on St. Charles Street.  We sprung for bleacher seats just outside the back door of our hotel, a great location - and a good way to meet people, watch the show on the street, sit back and party.

Three parades constitute a major dose of Mardi Gras - the floats were fantastic, the costumes were outrageous, the bands were entertaining, and the "throws" were fun - beads, cups, coins, candy, you name it. 

The last parade wrapped up after eleven, but the city was just coming to life so we wandered back over to Bourbon Street to see how the party was progressing.  News flash - at night, Bourbon Street is seriously crazy - gaudy, loud and, aromatic.  The liquor was flowing freely and crowds filled the streets to party and to beg (or disrobe) for beads thrown from balconies along the way.  We had to do it once, but probably that will be enough for a lifetime.

After 24 hours of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, it was time to head back to Mobile for more of the same.  Well, not quite the same - the festivities in Mobile are more family-oriented - still plenty of partying, but a bit less rowdy with fewer obnoxious drunks.

We went to one parade Friday night - more floats, more costumes, more bands, more stuff to catch.  In Mobile, there are plenty of beads, but here the throws include mini-Moon Pies, in all flavors!

We took a break on Saturday and went back downtown on Sunday for one of Mobile's most unusual parades - the Joe Cain Procession, or 'the people's parade.'   Other parades are organized by secret societies or 'krewes,' but the Joe Cain event is open to anybody - walk or ride, just don a costume and bring some stuff to throw.

We stopped by to see friends Philip and David, who live near the parade route.  They gave us a great parking place and Philip took this picture of our motley crew as we headed off in search of loot.

So - which is better, New Orleans or Mobile?  No answer to this question - they're really different. We can say we're glad that we had the chance to experience Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but once will be enough.  As for Mobile -- we're already checking the calendar for future dates ...